Major Structural Modifications in the Denver Metro

Removing Load-Bearing Walls to Open Up a Floor Plan

Most of the ranch and split-level homes we work on in Denver, Arvada, Lakewood, and Littleton were built between the 1950s and 1980s with chopped-up floor plans and a central load-bearing wall running through the kitchen or down the middle of the house. Taking that wall out usually means the load above it — roof trusses, a second floor, or ceiling joists — gets picked up by a new beam that carries the weight to posts and down into the foundation. Before we touch anything, we identify every wall that's actually load-bearing versus cosmetic, because in a lot of these homes it's not obvious from the attic or basement alone.

This kind of work pairs naturally with whole-home remodels and with home additions, since opening the main floor often happens at the same time as a kitchen expansion or a new rear addition that shifts load paths anyway. Doing it all in one phase saves on drywall, flooring patches, and a second round of permits.

LVL Versus Steel: Which Beam and Why

The beam choice comes down to span, load, and ceiling height — not personal preference. We spec one or the other based on what the engineer's calculations actually require.

• LVL (laminated veneer lumber): Works well for shorter to moderate spans, typically up to 16-20 feet depending on load. Cheaper material cost, faster to install, no welding or crane needed, and it's easier to conceal inside a standard-depth ceiling cavity in a single-story ranch.
• Steel (W-beam or flitch combo): Needed for longer spans, heavier point loads from a second story, or when ceiling height is tight and you need a shallower beam profile for the same load capacity. Steel costs more upfront and usually requires a crew to set it, sometimes with a mini-crane or chain hoist if access is limited.
• Flitch beams (steel plate sandwiched in LVL or dimensional lumber): A middle option we use when we need steel's strength but want wood on the faces for easier fastening and finishing.

In Denver's older two-story homes, steel is common because the beam is carrying a full second floor and roof load across a kitchen or living room span. In single-story homes without much above, LVL is often all that's needed and saves the client real money.

Structural Engineering and the Denver Permit Process

Every load-bearing wall removal in the Denver metro requires a stamped structural engineering letter or plan set, and every jurisdiction — Denver, Lakewood, Aurora, Westminster, Jefferson County, Arapahoe County — wants a building permit before demo starts, not after. We hire a licensed Colorado structural engineer to calculate the beam size, post locations, and footing requirements, factoring in snow load (Denver's design snow loads run heavier than a lot of states) and the specific framing in your house.

Once the engineer's letter is done, we submit for permit with the local building department, which typically takes anywhere from a few days to a few weeks depending on the jurisdiction's current backlog. Inspections happen at two key points: after the temporary shoring and beam are set but before drywall closes it up, and again at final. Skipping this process is not worth the risk — it affects your homeowner's insurance, your resale disclosures, and whether a future buyer's lender will even close on the house.

Temporary Shoring and What the Work Looks Like Day to Day

Before any wall comes out, we build temporary shoring walls on both sides — usually doubled studs with top and bottom plates tight to the ceiling and floor — spaced close enough to hold the load the permanent beam will eventually carry. This can take a half day to a full day depending on the span.

Once shoring is in, demo on the old wall goes fast, often just a few hours. Then it's framing the new header pocket, setting posts, and installing the beam — this is the part that takes the most coordination, especially with steel, since we're often working around existing ductwork, plumbing, or electrical that has to be rerouted. After the beam passes rough inspection, we close up drywall, patch flooring, and finish trim. A straightforward single-wall LVL job might run 3-5 working days start to finish; a steel beam job with mechanical rerouting can run two to three weeks.

What Drives Cost

Homeowners want a number before they've even talked to an engineer, and the honest answer is that cost depends on several specific factors:

• Beam material and size — steel runs more than LVL, and longer spans need bigger, pricier beams
• Whether mechanical, electrical, or plumbing lines have to be moved out of the wall cavity
• Access — a basement with low clearance or no exterior access adds labor time
• Footing work — if the new point loads exceed what the existing foundation can handle, you may need new concrete footings or even foundation underpinning at the load points
• Permit and engineering fees, which vary by jurisdiction but are non-negotiable costs baked into every legitimate project
• Finish work — matching existing flooring, drywall texture, and trim after the wall is gone

We give every client a written proposal after the engineer's letter is in hand, not before, because a verbal ballpark before engineering is just a guess.